Interview with Roberto Bonfanti, a pioneer of beauty

His dedication to quality, creativity and continuous pursuit of excellence make him one of the most influential leaders in the Italian cosmetics industry and beyond. Guided by a deep connection with nature, his muse of inspiration, Roberto carefully selects precious fruits, leaves and flowers that contain virtuous properties, transforming them into the main elements of each of his recipes. Just as happens in the preparation of a starred dish, Hur products are born from the skillful union of genius, experience and high-quality ingredients. It is an immense privilege for us to immerse ourselves in this reality, better understand this world and discover what makes "Laboratori HUR" a very exclusive and unique Italian cosmetic brand.

What was your professional path?

"My career path is somewhat different from that of the traditional cosmetologist, and this diversity is reflected in the final product. I studied agriculture and then pharmacy, both traditional choices. However, my real professional passion is for ingredients and the alchemy that comes from combining different elements. This is the core of my interest. Starting with the basic assumption that the ingredients used must be excellent, I have noticed that not all cosmetic companies (and this is one of the aspects that differentiates Laboratori HUR) use fresh ingredients. This peculiarity is found only in the world of cooking and agriculture. It is precisely this aspect of making room for freshness of ingredients in formulas that has marked my path, and it is a characteristic of French cosmetology. And it is this approach that has shaped me more than my studies. It was not born out of a passion for cosmetics, but out of a genuine interest in ingredients and their combinations, regardless of application."

What was the inspiration behind the creation of "Laboratori HUR"?

"It all started in 1985, 38 years ago. I was 24 and what fascinated me most was the combination of ingredients. After about two years of more "home" or "do-it-yourself" experiments, not directly related to my studies at the time, I opened "Laboratori HUR" and tried to sell my first product. Initially, I targeted perfumeries, but after about a year of failures, I completely changed direction and focused on the professional sector, targeting beauticians and industrial operators. I still vividly remember the first professional product we developed: an eye contour to be applied with gauze, perfect even when time was short; it could even be used during a visit to the hairdresser, with the beautician available to apply it. This product was a great success, a lasting success, and other products followed. I continued on this path, focusing mainly on professional products, which had been my first opportunity."

What is the creative process behind the development of "HUR Laboratories" products? Where do you get your inspiration for the formulas and ingredients used?

"I have the privilege of meeting a lot of people, and as an aesthetician, when I talk to them and look at them, I ask myself, "What can I do for this skin? When I see blemishes, I develop possible solutions to improve the face. And this is a path that I often explore and deepen with a creative outlook. The other fundamental aspect has to do with imagination and creativity, where ideas come to me without any apparent logical explanation. I often conceive of a product and begin to evaluate which ingredients I could use. Over time, I have come to understand that creating a good formulation is like making a cake: it is not about adding as many ingredients as possible, but about choosing the right ones. It is always a balance between eliminating what is not necessary and including what is essential. This aspect is crucial and requires expertise. I am passionate about ingredients, and there are many: there are about 30,000 ingredients in a cosmetic formula, but of course I do not know them all. For example, if I put basil with onion, I get one effect; if I put it with tomato, the result is different. Ingredients based on combinations produce different results. And the combinations are endless: just think what I can do with just ten ingredients, let alone a hundred. In our laboratory we have about 5,000 of them: the possibilities of combinations are really endless. I find it an extremely fascinating job, and I never get bored."

How do you choose the ingredients for your formulas?

"I try to supply the workshop with local produce, buying directly from farmers whenever possible. Recently we have increased supplies from Sicily, where we have had excellent avocado, mango, and papaya crops for 20 years. Sourcing these products in Sicily allows us to avoid the sea voyage and still ensure excellent quality: although they are not identical to those from overseas, they are an excellent alternative. I usually travel around Italy, but even in Morocco I find excellent ingredients, such as argan oil, which is unique in its origin, and such as, for example, Super Tuscan wine, produced by a method that does not follow the "Chianti" protocol, but uses international grape varieties. Thus was born the Super Tuscan line, which uses, precisely, our method but with different ingredients, such as Sicilian avocado, although it is not native to the region."

Are there any ingredients you like to "play" with in your creations?

"Absolutely, and I tend to "return" to them often because they are authentic passions that have been rediscovered and sought after over time. One of them is St. John's wort, also known as St. John's herb, which was widely used in the Middle Ages: in convents and monasteries, alchemy between plants was widely practised, and I am passionate about medieval recipes! St. John's wort has been one of the most popular flowers since 1200, and the 24th of June is dedicated to St. John, the patron saint of Florence. Soaked in oil, it produced an ointment that, when applied to wounds, had healing and mood-lifting properties. Another one is helichrysum, which grows on our beaches. Both are typically summer flowers, like lavender, and their power is unleashed when they are in bloom. One thing that fascinates me is the idea of creating creams (products?) with fruit as the basic ingredient, like avocado, for example, which has a natural creamy composition. I am working toward that goal."

HUR Laboratories is known for its focus on sustainability and product quality. With this constant aim, how does your company approach new product research and development?

"It is an essential point that none of us can escape. As a company and as citizens, we need to lead the planet towards a sustainable future. But how do we do that? One of the key issues in cosmetics is packaging. So far, we have not been able to find an effective solution, as we have with plastic crockery or disposable tableware. Glass is still the best choice, despite the logistical and user problems it poses. Some alternatives, such as bioplastics, are very controversial. We tend to use glass for smaller and essential bottles, such as those for essential oils. Where possible, we prefer recyclable and recycled plastic and encourage plastic collection campaigns. We also avoid the use of microplastics in our products as they are harmful to the marine environment and to our health."

We can therefore say that you deal with luxury in a different sense, in a context far from ostentation and, for this reason, better responding to lifestyle and beauty which are typical of the best Italian tradition. How would you define luxury and how have you been incorporating it into HUR Laboratories products?

"Luxury, to me, is like a tailor-made suit: a complete experience. When I stay in a hotel and find my favourite blueberry juice every morning, I appreciate the attention paid to my tastes and needs. I am fascinated by architecture and prefer minimalist yet welcoming environments where materials such as wood and stone are the protagonists.
True luxury is having the privilege of a tailor who creates a custom-made suit for me. I have always tried to have this philosophy reflected in my cosmetics: our products are different to suit different seasons and individual needs. When I create a routine, I need to have a wide range of options to define it in detail. A routine that can then change over time as seasons and circumstances change. True luxury lies in customed attention and care for each skin, giving it what it really needs, not just following the trends of the moment. This is the true meaning of luxury."

Can you explain how a new product launch works and how many products you have in your portfolio today?

"Our calendar includes two product launches per year, one for spring/summer and one for fall. We have recently launched 10 new products and plan to launch as many in the fall. We usually launch about 10-15 new products per year and sometimes take some out of production . Development begins a year before the product launch and includes the formulation phase, refinement, volunteer and market testing. In this creative process, as Albert Einstein said, imagination is more important than knowledge. Often experience can limit creativity, but sometimes it is experimentation that leads to the best results. Our best-selling cream, for example, was the result of much experimentation before achieving success. Over the years we have developed about 3800 formulas, eliminating those that have become obsolete and updating others. We currently have 200-300 products in our range."

Speaking of innovation, what are the latest trends in the cosmetics industry that HUR Laboratories is focusing its research and development on?

"HUR Laboratories has always been associated with the Faculties of Pharmacy and Cosmetology, offering research opportunities to young people who wish to pursue this path. I am happy to accept thesis proposals: we currently have 15-20 students studying our products. This link with the new generations is essential: it allows us to renew ourselves, it is stimulating and it allows us to share our experience. Among the new trends, many cosmetic companies are focusing on the skin's "microbiota", similar to that of the intestines, a group of organisms such as fungi, bacteria and viruses that are crucial to our skin's health. It was once thought that eliminating everything would be beneficial, but we now know that the skin's well-being depends on the balance of this ecosystem. The dilemma lies in the preservative system, which is necessary to keep the product stable, but which can interfere with the skin's organisms. When a cream is launched, it must be microbiologically stable and tested in specialized laboratories. We are exploring alternatives to the traditional preservative system, such as reducing the use of preservatives, keeping the product at lower temperatures, and using plant extracts instead of chemicals. For example, avocado contains acids that preserve it without the use of traditional preservatives. This research represents a return to nature in the field of cosmetics."

What is your vision for the future of HUR Laboratories? Do you plan to expand the product range or enter new markets?

"Yes, we are exploring new markets, but very gradually. At the moment we are only present in a few European countries. There is a widespread tendency to expand rapidly, but we believe that the quality of our products is more important than quantity. Constant work is fundamental for any company, but it is also essential to act intelligently and gradually. Our customers appreciate and want only quality products, not just mass products."

The cosmetics industry is constantly evolving. What challenges and opportunities do you see for HUR Laboratories over the next decade?

"The challenges we face are closely related to the generations: a generational change is needed to make room for younger people. Each of us has unique qualities to express. I am building a team that could eventually take my place, not only from a technical point of view, but also from a creative point of view, which could be the greatest challenge. Young people are welcome in HUR Laboratories!"

Which advice would you give to someone who is considering a career in the cosmetics industry?

"Do not blindly follow trends, but be aware of trends, observe the environment and at the same time follow your instinct and vision. I believe that a good beautician does not just follow ready-made formulas, but follows her or his passion. The true passion of a beautician is not just the ability to formulate products; that is only one limiting aspect of the industry. Going beyond that means understanding the skin, studying its problems, which goes beyond laboratory work. It is important to know not only the technical characteristics of the skin, but also how it reacts to cosmetics. Understanding the skin means understanding the person, with her/his insecurities and doubts. This is the real work, extremely interesting but also very complex."

If you were to recommend a routine for healthy skin, what would the essential steps be?

"A typical skin care routine usually includes an exfoliant, which can sometimes also act as a cleanser. As we are particularly concerned with aging skin, it is important to understand that our skin is constantly exfoliating and that this process is beneficial. However, exfoliation should not be considered in general terms, but should be tailored to the specific needs of the skin. A key element is the enzyme mask, which promotes deep hydration of the skin rather than surface hydration. Creams and serums are then recommended, adapted to the different seasons and individual skin needs. Often too much importance is placed on the cream or serum, when in fact these elements mainly provide comfort to the skin without being the real stars of the care routine. Finally, describing skin in detail is like talking about wine without tasting it: you would miss half the experience. I therefore always urge you to try a product, "tasting" it in the same way. "